The very first thing that hairstylists learn when they are
in training is holding the shears properly. There are some methodologies of
gripping the shear, but ultimately the grip has to be what makes the hair
artist more comfortable. Proper grip for professional haircutting is important
because:
·
You can get more precise
and accurate cuts with a good grip.
·
The strain on your wrist is
minimized, helping you avoid injuries and carpal tunnel syndrome.
The Grip
There are certain set
techniques of gripping the shear properly, they differ in terms of the style of
cut you are performing. Some professionals believe that hairstylists should
stick with one grip for all haircuts, but that can be hazardous as some cuts
require you to hold the shears differently to be more comfortable.
Before we get into the shear gripping business, it would be
prudent to learn more about the general design of the shears. This would help
new hairstylists in understanding how they should grip the shear better.
The Anatomy
Most everyone reading this would know the basic anatomy of a
shear, but just to refresh it all lets count down the parts of the haircutting
shear. There is the handle, with the finger holds. The two blades, or teeth in
case of thinning shears, and a screw to hold the two parts together. In latest
shear models, the screw is adjustable so hairstylists can adjust the level
friction to their own liking.
Another part of the shear, which is only present in some of
them nowadays, is called a tang. It protrudes from one of the finger holds of
the shear. It helps in gripping the shear better and allows the holder to keep
the shear balance at all times.
Traditional Grip
The traditional or western grip is a popular shear gripping
method among professional hairdressers. In the U.S it is commonly taught in all
the training centers because you can hold any type of shear using this method
and can perform most cutting techniques as well. The thumb and ring finger are
used in this grip, with the ring finger in the finger hold with the tang. The
other fingers can comfortably rest on the upper part of the shear.
The shear is closed and opened with the movement of the
thumb, only minimal movement is required to operate the shear. This gives you
more control over the shear, as oppose to when you cut hair using finger
movement.
Eastern Grip
Eastern grip is slightly different from the western one. In
this grip the index finger and the thumb are used to hold the shear, while the
rest of the fingers are used to keep the finger balanced. The similarity
between the two grips is that only the thumb is used to maneuver the shear in
eastern method as well.
Eastern grip is useful when you are slicing the hair or
performing a slide cut, as it puts less strain on your hand and wrist. Many
hair artists also prefer this grip for point cutting. This grip is not widely
taught, but one can master it after spending some time on dummy hair.
These are the two most common types of grips, you can master
them both with practice and use each one wherever necessary.
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